Campania Adventure Day 3-4: Positano

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We arrived in the spectacular seaside town of Positano in the evening after a fun-filled day trip to Capri.  Be forewarned! Getting around Positano is quite a challenge.  If you arrive by boat, luggage porters are needed to take your bags up to your hotel.  Our hotel, the Hotel Royal Positano , was situated a decent distance up the hillside.  The porters told us that it was impossible to walk up to the hotel; however, it wasn’t necessarily impossible, just very arduous.  After a full day of travel, it was not exactly what I had in mind.  We did stop, along what seemed like a never-ending series of stairways, to take some photos of the scenery along the way.

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On our way to dinner, the sun had already slipped behind the hillside, but we were able to admire the beautiful view of the ocean.

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Our hotel recommended a few restaurants.  Because we were tired of climbing staircases, we decided on Ristorante Mediterraneo, which served traditional Amalfi Coast specialities.  They served a wonderful lemon dessert called delizia al limone, a mouth watering lemon sponge cake topped with icing, whipped cream and a cherry.  The restaurant also jokingly calls it “the Boob.”

The next morning spattered Positano with a gentle rain, but cleared up later on.  I wanted to try hiking the Path of the Gods once the weather improved.  Most of the recommendations and travel blogs I had seen online said to start in Bomerano and take the path to Nocelle.  Unfortunately, it appeared that traveling by bus to Bomerano would take a very long time from Positano.  I thought that we could hike the path from Nocelle and do it in reverse. However, we made the mistake of starting our hike by taking the staircase directly up from Arienzo which ends up at a lemonade stand in Nocelle.  By the time we reached the top, we were exhausted and in no mood to continue the journey.  Nevertheless, we were able to admire some impressive views of Positano from above.

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We returned to our hotel and lounged at the swimming pool for a while before it was time to prepare for dinner.

That evening, our hotel booked us for dinner at La Tagliata.  The family-run restaurant provided us with bus transportation up to the location, way up in Monteperuso. I really wish there had been some more sunlight so we could see the magnificent view from the heights up there.

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Dinner at La Tagliata was a four course meal, antipasto, pasta, meat and dessert accompanied by endless amounts of the house wine.  We could see a thunderstorm off in the distance at sea.  A few squalls came through and we had to adjust our seats to shield ourselves from the rain.

The next day in Positano was rainy and we did not do too much while we waited for our boat.  We bought some pasta from a small shop and ate it at the edge of the road.

We wandered around the waterfront and explored the promenade until it was time for our boat to take us to Amalfi.

John Steinbeck once wrote: “Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.”  Positano  definitely will linger in my memories.  It is certainly a must for visiting the Amalfi Coast.  While navigating this vertical town can be frustrating, be patient with the experience of visiting here and let this enchanting place sink its teeth into you.

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